THE HUT
To some, this isolated beach hut would be a nightmare. For a surfer, it is a dream come true.
Surf photography often captures the obvious, waves, however sometimes we get an opportunity to capture the true heart of surfing culture. Exploration, often to some of the most remote places on the planet. A search for perfection, isolation and being at peace amongst natural surroundings.
This image was captured in the Mentawai Islands. A single hut constructed by an anonymous surfer and photographer, he has lived here for nearly 3 years. Living off the sea and land, surfing perfect waves nearly every day.
SEMPURNA
The meaning of ‘Sempurna’ in the language of Bahasa Indonesia is ‘perfect’.
Synonyms – Flawless, Faultless, Ultimate, Impeccable
One late afternoon during September 2018 on surf charter Ismari. Floating about 150 kilometres off the coast of Western Sumatra, we had just completed the 12 hour crossing over the channel from Padang to the Mentawai Islands.
It was about 5:30pm and the tide had turned, draining out past the thriving marine life of the reef veins, reducing the incoming swell to nearly nothing. After waiting nearly forty minutes in the tender, it was flat, no swell on the horizon.
All of a sudden as we packed up our camera equipment, the wind swung directly offshore, the air had a mystic chill to it in contrast to the warm tropical winds of that day. A freak set approached out of nowhere. The surfers had left, the lineup was empty.
The first wave broke beautifully. I paused in awe as if I’d seen a ghost and rushed to recalibrate my camera for one last shot.
The second wave of the set broke just as impeccably as the first whilst I turned my camera in a panic. Pure fear of missing the opportunity to capture such a moment.
With the settings adjusted in time for the last wave of the set, I composed myself in the channel. Standing, steadying the rock of the tender from the first two waves, the viewfinder hit level with the horizon as I pressed the shutter. Capturing the image ‘Sempurna’.
As far as waves for surfing are concerned, this is it, the holy grail. An immaculate 2-3ft wave easily rideable by surfers of various competency. Perfection.
“Rarely, in a single lifetime do we get to witness such a perfect alignment of nature’s elements. To capture them as a surf photographer is just a bonus.”
ONE PALM
For the most part, a lot of the original palms detailed in surf films of Mentawais in the late 90’s have washed away from the shoreline. Either from large swells or human development.
Deep down south in the Mentawais there are still palms today performing this impressive feat in an effort for more sun. Growing out over the reef, reaching and re-rooting to improve their position for photosynthesis. Some nearly 100 years old.
While coming to shore for the days surf photography session, I noticed this one, dissatisfied with its position. Re-adjusting out over the sand to survive in this quiet, shady cove.
SURF HISTORY
The Mentawais are located approximately 150km off the coast of West Sumatra. Many transcripts and photos suggest that the first discovery was around 1991 independently by Lance Knight as well as world-renowned surf charter captain Martin Daly.
Lance had grown up around stories of sailing through Sumatra, as his father and uncle had both fought in the Pacific Islands during WWII.
In 1991 Lance Knight, came across the Katiet surf break in a dug-out canoe with a local tribesman. Lance met Martin Daly in the channel, Martin shortly after, dubbed the surf break name “Lance Right”. Today, it is also known as “Hollow Trees”.
Although Lance and Martin are well respected pioneers of surf exploration there is however documented evidence of Australians Chris Goodnow and his mates travelling to the Mentawais as early as 1980. Chris Goodnow and friends had surfed Macaroni’s a full 10 years before, returning multiple times and always stating to friends and family upon return “No waves, amazing scenery, but no waves”.
Chris and his mates had stayed right in front of the keyhole of “Hollow Trees” in the early 1980’s, moving on from the break as it was on-shore and not showing any signs of it’s now known potential.
In 2004, Quiksilver’s original “Young Guns” surf film made Mentawais internationally known in the surf community.
They sent young professional surfers Dane Reynolds, Jeremy Flores, Ry Craike, Masatoshi Ohno and Luke Munro with surfing veteran Kelly Slater on an epic adventure to all of the Islands best surf breaks.
Mentawais quickly became internationally known as a surfers dream location.
Having some of the most consistent swells and offshore trade winds. It has become one of the most visited locations for surfers and surf photographers alike in the world today.
It is now easily accessible via fast ferry to land camps like Hollow Trees Resort, Wave Park and Aloita Resort. If your feeling a little more adventurous, there are surf charters available to explore further like the Ismari.
